The River Rhine marks the eastern boundary of France with Germany, but it wasn’t always so. Those two nations have fought wars back and forth across this verdant plain lying between the Voges Mountains and the River Rhine for centuries. As a consequence of this turbulent history, the culture here is an eclectic mix of Gallic and Teutonic; both French and German are spoken on the street. And the Alsatians have taken the best of these very different cultures in developing their own unique style in food and drink.
The Alsatian plain is a long, narrow rectangle, running from the European capital of Strasbourg in the north to the alpine border with Switzerland in the south. Fanciful villages straight from Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales dot the countryside, while grim fortresses brood on the mountain tops. After centuries of war, with this fertile territory frequently switching back and forth between the warring parties France and Germany, the French government today is working diligently to ensure that Alsace – firmly French since the second world war – is fully and permanently integrated into the French republic.
The food tends toward the Germanic – pork sausage, goose, sauerkraut – but clearly shows the elevating influence of classic French techniques. Similarly, the wines – over 90% are white – are made using primarily German grapes, but are vinified with Gallic flair. The result is some of the richest food and most exotic wine to be found anywhere.
Riesling is the most revered grape, but Sylvaner, Gewürtztraminer, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are also grown. Whereas German wines made from these grapes have historically been vinified with significant residual sweetness, in Alsace the same grapes are fermented completely dry, yielding wines of higher alcohol content and a fierce, thrilling intensity.
A good Alsatian Riesling should be a wine of forceful personality. In its youth it should be filled with opulent ripeness, reminiscent of grapefruit and zinging with lively acidity. It is so delicious that you wonder why bother to age it – enjoy it now! And you certainly can. But if you are willing to wait, your patience will be rewarded. As it ages through its first decade, that fruit-forward character recedes into the background, while complex, nuanced secondary flavours and aromas emerge to the forefront, hinting at fresh bread dough, with intriguing notes of hazelnuts, pineapple, toast crumbs and a characteristic whiff of paraffin. The wine seems fiercer now, and the complexity of the nose and the lingering finish are revelations.
Only recently have the Alsatians agreed to classify their vineyards, identifying the best sites within their vast vineyard area as Grand Cru – those two words on the label are your assurance that the grapes are from the finest plots of vines across the region. The name of the particular Grand Cru site should always be stated on the label. While a Grand Cru wine will undoubtedly be more expensive, the quality to price ratio here is one of the highest in Europe, and you will find it well worth the small premium to pay for the added cachet. And, unlike most European wines, the grape name will also normally be prominent on the label.
Above all, Alsatian wines are meant to be served with food. Their assertive flavours stand up to the challenging richness of whatever the food may be, without ever overshadowing the meal. They are exceedingly versatile, happily fulfilling whatever role is assigned to them, whether as an aperitif to begin the meal, alongside the main course, or as a bonne bouche with cheese at the very end. To your good health – prosit and salut!
© Paul Inksetter 2025
