Just the next mountain over from renowned Montalcino, source of the incomparable Brunello di Montalcino (see Bayview Fall 2021), lies another central Italian mountain town with an ambiguous name and its own remarkable take on Tuscany’s
signature grape – Sangiovese, the “blood of Jove”.
Montepulciano is the name of the town, but it also happens to share that name with a grape that is widely used in southern Italy; you may see labels reading Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, for example. But the wine of the town of Montepulciano is based on Sangiovese, sometimes blended with other Tuscan varieties, but never the grape with which it coincidentally shares its name.
The wine made here is known as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which translates as Wine of the Nobles of Montepulciano, a perhaps somewhat arrogant and elitist term. Only the nobility were allowed to grow this wine within the commune, and, presumably, the only ones who drank it, as they kept it for their own exclusive use. When Italy’s DOC rules were being drawn up, some thought it logical to include Montepulciano within the ambit of Chianti, but the Montepulciani would have none of it, asserting that their ancient tradition of nobility demanded its own denomination. And so it was granted its own DOC, and then Vino Nobile di Montepulciano had the honour of becoming the very first wine in Italy to be declared DOCG – Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita – the highest-ranking designation for Italian wine.
The particular clone of Sangiovese grown here is known locally as Prugnolo Gentile – sweet little plum in English. To qualify as DOCG, the wine must contain a minimum of 70% of this base grape, and increasingly, in many of the finest wineries, it may be 100%. This produces a firmly structured, tannic, deep crimson wine that demands a few years of ageing before showing its real potential; I find that 8 to 12 years of age is prime for Vino Nobile. At that age you will find a wine that is mellow and smooth but still firmly structured, with good fruit complexity. This is a wine absolutely made to be consumed with food Italian style: exotic pastas, grilled roasts, vegetable stews, and assorted risotto dishes. And perhaps the nicest feature of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is that it runs about half the price of its more prestigious neighbour, Brunello di Montalcino. They also make a second tier wine called Rosso di Montepulciano, using grapes from younger vines and vats that are not up to DOCG standard. This is a lighter, paler – and less expensive – DOC wine, without the structure of the premium DOCG wine. It is more accessible and designed to be enjoyed while still young. Here they also produce some of Italy’s finest Vin Santo.
Montepulciano the ancient town is an absolute delight. Cars are not permitted into the old town, so you park at the base of the hill beside a gigantic iron horse, the replica sculpture of one that was commissioned by Ludovico il Moro, the Duke of Milan, from Leonardo da Vinci in 1482, but that Leonardo never completed. Some five centuries later, his original design was used to build this immense horse, finishing the project started by Leonardo centuries before. From there you walk up, up, and up – that seems to be the only direction here! In the old town you will find all the attractions you expect – stone churches, boutique gift shops, artists and artisanal fabricators, enotica (wine shops), ristorante and trattoria, and all manner of touristy delights. And the view out over the Val di Chiana and the Tuscan hills is truly wondrous.
© Paul Inksetter 2025
